Pattern "
March 29, 2022
A basic bodice is a foundation pattern to fit a person. The measurements of the person has to be used to construct the bodice ( check my previous post on how to take body measurements).
After constructing this bodice, style lines, tucks, gathers, pleats or drapes can be introduced but the basic fit of the pattern will conform to the block used.
The foundation pattern is cut on FOLD, that is half of the front and half of the back.
The front bodice is longer than the back bodice because the front has bust and this bust adds more inches to the length of the front. So therefore, to equalize the front and the back, the number of inches that made the difference will be taken in as dart on the front. For example, if the front is 17inches and the back is 15inches, you will take in 2 inches from the side of the front to form a dart, hence, the sides of the front and back becomes equal.
EQUIPMENTS NEEDED FOR DRAFTING
- A large surface for working is required.
- A large sheet of plain paper
- light transparent paper, suitable for tracing.
- pencils, pen or marker.
- A quality eraser.
- rulers
- Set squares
- Scissors for cutting papers.
- pins
- weight for holding down the paper while working.
STEPS ON DRAFTING
- RECTANGULAR BLOCKS
Two rectangles are drawn to represent half of the front and half of the back. After drafting this, name both of them.
- HORIZONTAL GUIDELINES
This are lines rule across to give a guide for the shaping of your pattern. The lines to be measured are;
* Shoulder guideline
* Chest guideline
* Bust guideline
* Underbust guideline
* Waist guideline
* Hem guideline
- VERTICAL GUIDLINES
The lines for the neckline and armhole are drawn. The lines are taken from the top of the block.
- SHAPING OF THE BODICE.
- ADD DARTS
Darts gives shape and form to an otherwise flat pattern. ( I will discuss DART much later).
Rajon "