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Apparels product defeat classification -

December 25, 2021

We believe that one day we will be number one in the world in the garment industry, in which case quality plays a vital role in the production of quality garments, hence today's discussion on quality.

What is a defect?
Check in the garment industry is done right from the initial stages of sourcing raw materials-
Quality of the product is required to establish the brand name and sustainable  the garment exporter’s
The reputation which in turn is related to customers satisfaction &  high sales and export.
Classification of garment defects
It is important to understand different garment defects, defect types and sources of the defect.
 Garment defects classification.

1.  Critical, major and minor defects.
*Critical Defects
A defect that poses a safety hazard to the consumer and/ or violates mandatory regulations is termed as a critical defect. 
Typically, if a critical defect is found in the shipment, the importer tends to reject the entire order. This is because, a critical defect could harm the consumer, impair the image of distributors throughout the supply chain, makes the brand liable, and incur unnecessary expenses in the event of a product recall. Some examples of 
*critical defects in garments are:
(1) Presence of a needle or other sharp object included in the packaging of the finished good due to the cutting and sewing processes involved in the manufacturing of the garment.
(2) Bloodstains on the garment due to the presence of a sharp object which might pierce a worker accidentally during work.
(3) Broken button
(4) Mould on a garment
(5) Improperly secured loose trims and fasteners
(6) Drawstring near head or neck in infant and kids wear
(7) Thread or trims which are extensively long or loose
(8) Missing suffocation warning labels.

* Major Defect 
These defects are those which result in overall product failure or reduced usability of the product that prevents it from being placed on the market. They do not pose any safety threat to the user, but typically lowers the value of the product, adversely affects its marketability and saleability, shorten the life cycle of the product, and increase product returns for replacement or refund.
Some examples of major defects in garments -
9. Open seam 10. Holes11. Broken stitches,12. Incorrect colors or designs on the product,13. Damaged fabric14. Bubbling due to fusing,15. Zipper,16. Button not well attached,17. Incorrect SPI,18. Main label spot etc. Open seam   Fabric holes.

*Minor Defect*
Minor defects are unlikely to reduce product usability. They are workmanship defects beyond the defined specifications or construction requirements that the importer and supplier have agreed upon. Some examples of minor defects in garments are:
19. Mis printing of the label on a shipping carton
20. Untrimmed threads 3-4 mm, missing stitches  or uneven stitching on a garment
21. Minor variation in shading between garment pieces
22. Variation of care label quality or content
23. Dirt material that can easily be washed off.
2.1 Fabric defects/Material Defects
These defects are found in the fabric and are mostly not caused by the sewing lines. Fabric defects could be addressed at the point of fabric inspection or cutting. Fabric defects are further classified as below.

2.1.1. Due to fabric construction (weave or knit)
24. Barre, Striation
25. Bowing or Skewing
26. Broken or missing warp/ weft yarn (Broken end)
27. Cuts & Tears
28. Drop stitch, Laddering
29. A fabric with the wrong specification
30. Foreign Particles
31. Hole
32. Knot or Repair
33. Nap or Pile Deformation
34. Pills formation
35. Reed marks
36. Thick and thin places
37. Uneven knitting.
For more images of fabric defects, refer to the article fabric defect classification pilling in fabric  Hole in fabric. the knot in fabric. Colour and Print
38. Dyeing spot
39. Metamerism (store light vs daylight)40. Mismatching of Panel, Interlinings
41 Misprint fabric or 
Printing defects
42. Shade Difference
43. Colour fastness (Staining)
44. Streaky appearance
45. Colour-off standard
46. Dye bars.
Dyeing spot Metamerism.
shade variation between garments   Dyeing spots.
Printing defect in garment panels  Shade variation.

2.1.3. Fabric Appearance, General.
47. Burn or Scorch Marks
48. Delamination of fusible
49. Fabric hand feel differs from the approved sample
50. Marks, stains, dirt, oil stains
51. Washing Marks, Fold Lines.
Oil stains in garment fusible interlining.
2.2. Workmanship and Handling defects in garments
These are defects that are caused during the manufacture of the garment. The stages of garment manufacturing- pattern making, spreading, cutting, sewing, assembling, finishing, and packaging involve a lot of workmanship and material handling.

2.2.1. Pattern Making
Pattern making related to garment defects include -
52. A difference in measurement of a garment part from others
53. Missing pattern parts
54. Pattern not aligned with respect to fabric grain
55. Patterns not facing in the correct direction on napped fabrics
56. Poor line definition leading to inaccurate cutting
57. Skimpy marking
58. Wrong Check Boxing
59. Wrong Gradation of Sizes.

2.2.2. Spreading and Cutting
Garment defects are caused by the spreading and cutting process.
60. Drill and Notches Marks
61. Frayed Edges
62. Garment part damaged by careless use of a knife
63. Improper Knife Cut
64. Inaccurate Cutting
65. Incorrect Tension of Plies
66. Narrow Fabric
67. Not all Plies Facing in Correct Direction
68. Notches misplaced, Too deep, Too shallow, Angled, Omitted
69. Plies misaligned
70. Scorched or fused edges
71. Slits opened inaccurately or Omitted.
2.2.3. Garments defects generated in the stitching process 
72. Bartack missing
73. Blind stitch visible
74. Bow or motif poorly positioned, loosely attached
75. Broken stitches
76. Button attached loosely
77. Button-hole is untidy or fraying
78. Button stitching is too tight preventing functionality
79. Button or buttonhole not aligned properly
80. Collars misshaped, unbalanced, bubbled
81. Excess fabric on stitch
82. Finished components not symmetrical
83. Finished garments not to size
84. Frayed edges (overlock missing)
85. Improper bottom hemming
86. Improper positioning of the belt loop (slanted)
87. Incorrect pocket position
88. Insecure backstitching
89. Lining too full or too tight
90. Lining/ Padding exposed
91. Mismatch checks, plaids, or stripes
92. Needle cut
93. Needle marks
94. Oil stain
95. Open stitch
96. Over stitching
97. Parts, components, closures omitted or damaged
98. Pleat on the seam
99. Ropy hem
100. Run of stitch
101. Seam pucker
102. Seam grinning
103. Seam is open
104. Seam mismatch
105. Seam not secured
106. Seam slippage
107. Seam unraveling
108. Skipped stitches
109. SPI incorrect, irregular
110. Thread breaks
111. Thread tension high
112. Thread tension low
113. Torque on the side seam
Seam puckering garment defects
Garment defects seam grin.
Loose thread tension incorrect buttonhole size.
Button attach loosely   Button misaligned.
Needle cut defective buttonhole.

2.2.4. Garment defects caused in the Finishing and Washing process
114. After wash streak or striation
115. Back staining of pocket
116. Care label fading/ damage after wash
117. Chalk, pen, or pencil marks are visible
118. Untrimmed threads
119. Garment torque of spirality.
2.2.5. Garment defects caused by pressing
120. Appearance not smooth
121. Scorching or burn marks
122. Water spots not dried.
Pressing defect shiny marks   Water spots on the finished garment.
2.2.6. Packing related garment defects
123. Incorrect folding/ packing
124. Labels not showing where required
125. Omitted warning signs in the polybag
126. Smeared barcodes or instructions
127. Wrong size, color, and quantity packed.

2.3. Garment defects from defective Trims and Accessories
2.3.1. Trims
Commonly found defects related to trims.
128. Brass zipper, buttons, rivets leave stains on the product due to oxidation
129. Button loops inconsistent or irregular
130. Button missing or damaged button
131. Button size does not match with buttonhole
132. Care label missing
133. Embroidery backing excessive
134. Embroidery needle cuts
135. Embroidery,  applique poorly positioned, untidy or unfinished
136. Fasteners poorly positioned, missing, or malfunctioning
137. Lace irregular shape or untrimmed
138. Missing collar bone
139. Poor elasticity of elastic
140. Spare button missing
141. Zipper malfunction
142. Zipper puller self-lock not secure
143. Zipper tape shortage
144. Zipper wavy
145. Main label spot or damaged.
Defective trim attached in a garment   Broken button
Wavy zipper attachment   Defective zipper
Excess back fabric in embroidery   missing trim (button

2.3.2. Accessories
146. Missing or wrong placement or incorrect carton stickers
147. Missing/ wrong placement/ incorrect hangtags (hangtag off shade)
148. Broken hanger resulting in sharp end/ edge.



Rajon Sheikh